Whole Prey Item Feeding Guide

 

Feeding whole prey, while it may seem gross to more squeamish crabbers, is a highly beneficial

option with higher nutritional benefits, alongside being more natural! 

 

What Do You Mean By Whole Prey?

 

 "Whole prey" refers to feeding intact meat, seafood and such, as opposed to prepared meat

with much of the animal removed such as fur, bones, innards and claws. This can take several

forms, the most popular and convinient options for the majority of crabbers is the range of

animals sold for reptile and raptor feeding. These are not fed live and are usually brought frozen.

 Generally when refering to whole prey mammals or birds are the subject since intact chunks of fish

are much more commonly fed, and these are the focus of this information sheet.

 

Why Feed Whole Prey?

 

  Feeding whole prey items­ has a variety of benefits for the crabs. These include:

• The presence of feathers and fur, which offer a source of keratin and captive crabs will often readily eat this when available, sometimes with more eagerness than the flesh of the prey. These are also eaten in the wild while scavenging.

• The eyes, organs, bones and other components so often removed from human grade meat all also offer good nutritional sources, as with many scavenging species land hermit crabs will often choose to eat the eyes before other parts of the prey.

• Reptile feeders are often species or forms not usually eaten by humans but that will most likely form some part, however small, of a wild crab's diet. Mice for example on death in areas native to the crabs can easily be discovered and eaten, and baby chicks which died for whatever reason would also be readily taken.

• Whole, unprocessed food items are much more natural for the hermit crabs and may prove more stimulating during the effort to find and reach the parts they wish to eat.

• While meat is not the majority of a wild hermit crab diet this method could well provide nutrition that may be missed or lesser in captivity due to the prevalence of feeding human grade produce. 

• It also allows them to select whichever parts they wish and better tailor the meal to their requirements at the time.

 

What Type Should I Choose?

 

 There are many different options available on the market, or even locally depending on your area. Alternating among different types as an occasional feed will help maximise the benefits and keep things interesting for the crabs. If you have concerns about waste start with a size smaller than you believe they will finish or break off a piece to try and leave the rest frozen then work from there. These are some of the options available.

 

• Mice: These come in a range from pinkes (newborns without fur) through to large adults. The best size to start with is the "fluff/fuzzy" due to the slightly increased bone content and presence of fur while only being slightly larger than a pinkie.

• Rats: As with mice these come in a range of sizes, they offer a slightly increased fat content and are larger from the start. Fuzzies are also the recommended start size.

• Day old chicks: Usually the rejects from the meat industry, these young chickens have been culled almost at hatching and are a good size for medium colonies and crabs. Easily broken apart for smaller colonies, they offer decent nutrition at a much lower price than rodents. There is a misconception among some reptile keepers that they are poor nutritional choice due to the lower price, this is however a myth and simply caused by their origin.

• Chickens (other sizes): Sold mainly for larger snakes, if you ask around it is possible to find everything from freshly hatched to adult. It is often worth asking local small scale breeders or farmers if they are able to offer these at cost, they will usually however need portioning for all but the largest of colonies to minimise waste.

• Quail: A more expensive but smaller bird option, these may need ordering in by your store but it is well worth asking!

• Rabbits: Sold both commercially bred for reptile and raptor food and sometimes available shot from farmers land, these need portioning but offer generous sources of fur and goodness for the crabs. If using wild rabbit it is best to freeze for at least two weeks before use to help kill any parasites and such they may be carrying, and to check for potential contaminents on the land they came from that may prove harmful to the crabs on injestion. 

• Other Rodents: Various other species are often available as alternative feeders and to keep diet varied (or indeed to cater for fussier snakes!). Prices, sizes and availability vary so shop around. 

 

Sourcing

 

  The best source for the commonly sold prey items are your local pet stores, especially the ones that cater more for exotic pet keepers. These items can also be sourced online but the volume needed to make the courier cost worthwhile means it is rarely worth it just for crab purposes. Feeder items are usually available singly as well in multi packs, some stores may keep these frozen items out back so may require asking a member of Staff for assistance. If particularly squeamish chain stores often sell these in solid colour bags, it is however preferable for many keepers to support small local buisnesses more. 

It is well worth considering taking a small cool bag with an ice pack to keep your feeders frozen in the car, particularly during hot weather.

 

How Do I Prepare and Offer It?

 

Depending on the size and type of prey item being offered you may not need to do anything at all to it. In the case of fuzzies and other such small items you can simply defrost and offer whole, and the same applies for larger items if offered to bigger colonies. Cutting or in some way aiding the crabs access to the food is not needed for the vast majority, they wield considerable power for their size in the claws and even small babies are able to cut into fur, feathers, skin, tough bird feet and smaller bone (such as in chicks). If choosing to buy larger items and offer part at a time or breaking items up to enable larger colonies full access it is often easiest and cleanest to break them at the joint while frozen and inside a food storage bag than to cut them, chicks in particular can be broken apart very cleanly and with minimal fuss. Portioning does minimise risk of the whole meal being guarded by one crab or dragged off into a tunnel.

 

Defrosting should of course be done before serving the food, the easiest method for this is to leave it on the side (covered with a net or in a bag to prevent pest access), or on top a warm tank. Do not heat the prey or place it in hot water as this may cause it to begin to cook internally, and never microwave one as this can have an unpleasant end.

 

When actually feeding to minimise difficult cleanup serving the food on a large, disposable plastic tray (such as the black flat ones baby corn and such are sold on) is the easiest solution, while the crabs may choose to drag it off serving in a secluded area of the tank will help minimise the risk of this. The larger surface area will also help catch any removed fluff or fur. Simple plastic tweezers, feeding tongs for reptile use or even salad tongs kept soley for that purpose are worthwhile, and a bag that the item can be speedily dropped into and disposed of intact is wise for those with a queasy stomach. Feeding pleasantly scented flowers, fruits and such will help cover any smell, but this should be minimal if the food is removed before it begins to spoil properly. Some may find it better to leave the item in an extra few hours if it becomes obvious the crabs will fully eat it, this allows any smell to disappate more.

 

Tips and Tricks For Squeamish Crabbers

 

• Find out how the food is packaged at your source and if not bagged take a small sandwich bag or ziplock bag and ask the seller to put it in that for you. The item can then be defrosted in the bag and tipped straight into the tank without being touched.

• Serve on a disposable dish, tray or plate which can simply be thrown out when done, minimising cleanup.

• Longer tongs such as those used to handle food on a barbecue or reptile feeding tongs may be preferable to keep your distance from the food.

• Smaller prey items are less likely to have parts left and will generally lead to less mess. If seeing them eating will bother you don't look again til cleanup time, you may however find the fascination of the crabs exhibiting such natural behaviour helps overcome the ick factor.

• Focusing on the benefit to the crabs may also help overcome the initial reaction to some degree and has helped other crabbers to take the step in the past.

• If you don't feel you can do it do not beat yourself up for this, take your time, consider it in future and explore alternatives like butchers scraps. 

 

 FAQ

 

• Will x species eat this? While some species are more meat heavy in their dietary preferances than others, all the commonly kept Coenobita species can choose to eat this food type and thus it is worth trying at least occasionally. Enthusiasm varies from crab to crab even among one species and different stages in their moult cycle/recent feedings and other variables can also influence things.

• How often should I offer whole prey? A couple of times a month seems to be a good base amount, experimentation and observing your own colony is the best way to tailor things to their needs.

• Isn't it cruel to feed mice/chicks? Mice, chicks and other such "cute" animals may seem almost taboo to feed but ultimately it is no different to feeding meat to any other pet that requires it, and often the ones raised for reptile feeding purposes have more humane deaths than that of human grade meat. It can also be argued the use of culled chicks helps to minimise wasted deaths as a result of the egg industry. 

• Will I have to kill them myself? No. The vast majority of exotics keepers in for example the UK buy prekilled and frozen feeders, some may choose to raise their own and dispatch them in a speedy, painless and as humane a possible method as they can.

• How long do they take to defrost? It is impossible to say for sure as this will vary based on size, type, ambient temperature and other factors. It usually doesn't take long and can be sped up by placing them on top the tank which will be slightly warmer than the room in general.

• My mouse has patches/freezer burn, can I feed it? Freezer burn is not necessarily a bad thing and won't really impact much despite it obviously being preferable to have feeders without it. If in doubt or you have concerns it has been defrosted and refrozen toss it or contact the source. It is best to check feeders before paying to avoid this issue!

• Can I feed the ones my snake refuses? Yes, if a snake has refused to feed overnight these can be offered to the crabs as long as they have not had medications applied.